|  Frequently
Asked Plumbing Questions
These articles are compiled for your general information
only. Use them as a guide when working on your home or business. When
the project gets to be too big or gets past you, then please contact
RAPS and we will be happy to help you.
“Buying Your
Own Plumbing Parts”
When homeowners need to hire a professional to come make a home repair,
they often think they can save money by buying the supplies themselves
and paying the professional to do the installation. However, because contractors
cannot warranty products they do not supply themselves, it can often cost
the homeowner more if there is a problem with the part. (This does affect
our 100% Satisfaction Guarantee, so keep that in mind)
Q: Aren't the faucets sold in hardware stores the same faucets
plumbers supply?
A: That depends. Some of the faucets sold at warehouse
stores are not the same grade. Even the better known name brands make
lower grade products with plastic internal parts that some plumbers
would never use. There is a difference between a $59 faucet and one
that costs $89, even if they look the same. The old adage, "you
get what you pay for" is still as true as ever.
Q: How can I determine the quality of products I buy myself
in hardware stores?
A: You probably can't because you haven't had a professional
plumber's experience from working on hundreds of homes a year, finding
which products work best, last longest, and give homeowners the least
problems. When you hire a professional to do a job, you are paying for
this expertise. This is true with other trades as well; electricians
can't warranty fans and fixtures you buy in the hardware store, tile
setters know from experience that they can waste a lot of time struggling
to set tile the homeowner bought on sale from a discount store because
they often are "seconds" which cannot be set straight, a carpenter
can't properly hang an odd-ball door. It usually takes more time to
try to make an inferior product fit or work properly than to do it right
the first time.
Q: Don't manufacturer guarantee their products? Why would I
need a plumber to warranty them?
A: Generally, if a part is defective, you call the
manufacturer. With a faucet, for example, the manufacturer will tell
you to remove the faucet and ship it back to them and they will either
send you another faucet or a refund to reimburse you to buy a new one.
Either way, you'll still need to pay a plumber to remove it and reinstall
the new one. If the manufacturer elects to send you a replacement, you
will have to go without a faucet while waiting for them to send you
the new one, then pay for a second trip from the plumber. Buying their
own water heater, for example, presents an even more expensive risk
to homeowners. If that is defective, the manufacturer will send out
a representative, usually a local contractor on contract to them, and
some people have had to wait for two days to a week without hot water,
for this specific contractor to arrive.
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“Pipeline to Warmth - Repairing
Frozen Pipes”
Everyone knows that water freezes at 32 degrees--and that includes
the water in your pipes. So if you find yourself with a frozen pipe,
here's the plan. Open the faucet at the end of the pipe and close the
valve that runs into it. Then check for holes, cracks or breaks. A pinhole
can be repaired just by wrapping with electrical or duct tape; a hairline
crack can be sealed by covering with a pipe clamp (aka pipe sleeve);
for a really big crack you'll need to replace that section of pipe.
If you've been able to repair the pipe without replacing it, then apply
heat to the frozen section, using one of several methods: use a hairdryer,
wrap the pipe in heat tape or an electric blanket or, in a pinch, you
can even wrap rags around the pipe and pour hot water over them (this
might take a while). Once water starts dripping out the faucet again,
it's time to let the water start flowing again. Then make sure this
problem doesn't happen again. Get some pipe insulation, electric pipe-heating
wire or pipe tape to keep your pipes warm and safe all winter long.
If you keep having a problem with frozen pipes, please contact
RAPS today and we can use our special equipment to get them unfrozen
and working great again.
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“How to Replace a Shower Head”
There are various styles of shower heads, both regular and pulsating,
all of which normally connect to a 1/2 inch threaded shower pipe. Many
years ago there were pipes with a built in ball end. Those pipes must
be replaced with a threaded end. Sometimes they are difficult to remove.
Most balls you see when removing the original head have been screwed on,
even if they are very tight, to the shower pipe. If you see even one thread,
the head is normal.
Step 1. Use masking tape on the chrome pipe to protect
the finish from being scratched when using wrenches or pliers. Use either
vise grips and a pair of pliers, or a pipe wrench and pliers to remove
the old shower head.
Step 2. Replace the Teflon tape on the end of shower
pipe to prevent leaking.
Step 3. Put on the new head according to the manufacturers
instructions. Remove the masking tape and you are ready for a shower.
If the shower head is leaking even a little, you will eventually have
problems with water pressure and corrosion. It also will needlessly
increase your electric bill with your hot water or water bill if you
have city water. If you need us to check it out, please feel free to
contact
us and we would be happy to check it over for you.
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“Protect Home Plumbing Now
to Prevent Problems Later”
Homeowners should be aware of troubles that come with frigid temperatures,
especially when it comes to pipes. There are several things you can do
to make sure your pipes are in line and working fine:
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“Plumbing Addition Ideas”
Here are some common (and not so common) types of bathroom fixtures for
basic plumbing fixtures:
“Ever thought of adding a Bidet to
your Bathroom?”
Mention the word bidet, and you're likely to get a giggle or two. Widely
accepted and used in Europe as a regular and integral part of everyday
hygiene, the bidet is still something of a stranger in American homes.
In fact, after that initial giggle you'll often find that many people
are not at all familiar with what they do, how they work, or why anyone
would want one. It's a strange thing indeed, given the high level of
personal hygiene in this country.
So, giggle away here. Bidets are basically like big sit-down sinks
with a little fountain in the middle. They are used for washing after
a person is done using the toilet. Bidets are used by both men and women,
as well as children. In addition to their cleansing benefits, bidets
are very useful in the treatment of a variety of medical conditions,
such as hemorrhoids.
A bidet consists of a bowl, hot and cold water controls, a stopper
that allows water to be held in the bowl if desired, a vertical sprayer
and sometimes a horizontal sprayer as well. You sit on a bidet facing
"backward" – that is, in the opposite direction from
how you would sit on a toilet. The seating gives you convenient access
to the rear-mounted hot and cold-water valves and the drain stopper
mechanism. The faucets control the temperature and volume of the water
coming out of the spray head. In units with an additional horizontal
sprayer, the controls for switching between the spray heads are typically
located alongside the faucets.
Installation
For convenience in both plumbing installation and actual usage,
bidets are most commonly installed directly adjacent to the toilet.
They are roughly the same size as the lower (bowl) portion of a toilet,
and require as little as nine square feet of floor space.
When selecting a bidet, you'll find a wide range of colors and styles.
Virtually every manufacturer designs and markets their bidets to match
their line of toilets, allowing for a coordinated look in the bathroom.
Besides choosing the general style of the unit itself, there are typically
a couple of different options for the type of sprayers. All bidets are
equipped with a vertical sprayer located in the bottom of the bowl and
designed to spray directly upward. Horizontal sprayers – either
fixed or movable – are available in different configurations,
and are typically located at the rear of the bowl. As with sink faucets,
you will also find a wide array of handle styles, materials and finishes
to suit any taste and compliment any style of bathroom décor.
Bidets are roughed-in in much the same way as a pedestal sink, utilizing
a drainpipe, a trap and hot and cold water supplies. The drain line
can come out horizontally through the wall, which simplifies installation
but leaves the line and the attached trap exposed, or both the drain
and the trap can be installed below the floor. With either installation,
the vertical portion of the drain, which extends up from the trap is
concealed by the bidet itself. Complete rough-in instructions are provided
with the unit, and since rough-in dimensions can vary between manufacturers,
it's important to get this information prior to beginning any rough
plumbing.
After completion of the finished wall and flooring surfaces, the bidet
itself is installed by attaching the faucet to the bowl, connecting
the drain line and water lines, and then bolting the unit to the floor.
We can help you with the installation of a new bidet into your home’s
bathroom or if you just like to learn more –
Contact RAPS today.
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“Spotting Water Damage Before
It's Too Late”
Water is one of those seemingly innocent things around the house that
gets underestimated in its potential to do damage. A trap that's not tight,
a toilet seal that's lost its grip, a water line with a tiny drip - it's
not much water and it's hard to see or hear, but every day it continues
it has the potential to wear away structural members, cause mold growth
and create a number of problems for you and your home. For the most part,
though, water leaks leave their warning signs, so you need to be aware
if your home is using any of the following visual clues to try and warn
you.
Stains
The most obvious water leak indicator, other than standing water, is
a water stain. Stains may appear:
- Around windows or the bottom of exterior doors, indicating that
water is entering from the outside;
- At the joint between the ceiling and an exterior wall. This could
be an indication of a roof leak, but in this location it probably
indicates an ice-damming problem.
- Anywhere else along the ceiling. Unless you have water lines that
run in the attic, which is pretty uncommon, a ceiling stain almost
certainly indicates a roof leak. Remember, that the location of the
stain does not necessarily mean the roof leak is right above it –
it usually originates higher up and drips down.
- In cabinets: If you see a water stain or a whitish ring on the
floor of a cabinet that houses a sink, it's probably a sign of water
leaking from the trap, or from somewhere else in the sink's drain
system.
- Mold and mildew stains: If you see mold or mildew growing, it's
an obvious indicator of a moisture problem, but not necessarily an
actual water leak. In a bathroom, it usually means there's inadequate
ventilation to rid the room of moisture. At the bottom of an exterior
wall, it might mean ground water from sprinklers or other sources
is coming in. In a closet, behind a bed, or in other areas with little
or no air circulation it could mean a variety of things, most likely
an overly damp crawl space.
Structural Indicators
One common indicator of the presence of water is a floor that begins
to buckle slightly, with hills and valleys. Vinyl floors are typically
laid over particle board underlayment, which absorbs water like a sponge
and then swells up. Hardwood floors will show water by cupping up around
the tongue-and-groove joints.
Common floor areas to keep an eye on for potential water problems
are in the kitchen around the dishwasher, where there is both a water
supply and a drain line that can leak, and around refrigerators equipped
with ice-maker lines. In the bathroom, pay close attention to the floor
around the toilet. If the wax ring deteriorates over time, water can
leak out around the base of the toilet onto the floor.
The worst area in the bathroom is in front of the tub or shower, where
water damage can occur from splashing, partially-opened shower curtains,
shower or tub doors that don't seal completely, and especially from
people stepping out and dripping water on the floor. This is a very
typical area in a home to find water damage and dry-rot, so keep a very
close eye on these areas and act quickly if you see any stains or evidence
of buckling.
With repeated exposure to water, drywall will soften and break down,
so here's another indicator. The drywall will usually take on a discolored
and slightly swollen appearance, and will gradually soften until you
can put your finger through it with just a slight amount of pressure.
Drywall indicators are usually found in the same areas as the water
stains and buckled floors mentioned above. Pay particular attention
to the drywall near the floor around toilets, and also down in the corners
near where the bathtub or shower meet the floor.
What to Do, What to Do...
At the first indication of a water leak, make it an absolute priority
to locate and deal with the water source. It may be obvious –
a wet patch under a dishwasher and nowhere else in the house would make
a pretty strong case for a leak in that appliance – or it may
be a stain or a patch of mildew that could be coming from a variety
of sources.
If you are unable to locate the source of the water leak yourself,
get some help from RAPS. We specialize in water damage restoration have
very sophisticated and accurate water detection meters that can locate
the presence of moisture in a wide variety of materials, and in otherwise
concealed areas.
We can look through your home to see where your leak might be, or if
it is another problem. If you should find a leak and need further assistance,
then contact
RAPS today.
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